My Essential Stained Glass Tools: A Beginner's Guide
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Introduction
Starting your stained glass journey can feel overwhelming with all the tools and materials available. After years of working with glass, I've learned which tools are essential and which ones make the process easier. In this guide, I'll walk you through everything you need to get started, from the absolute basics to those handy extras that I've come to rely on.
List of basics you will need:
Glass Cutter Kit (would recommend this kit if on a budget)
Edco 7/32 Black Backed Copper Foil (Recommended for Beginners)
Highly recommended Materials
Cutting System and Waffle Grid
Copper Patina (not recommended for lead-free)
Useful for long-term Stained Glass Artists
iPad
Apple Pencil
Procreate App
Making Patterns
If you decide to create your own patterns, I recommend investing in a Cricut machine. While there is a steep learning curve when it comes to designing and preparing files, I’ve found the process to be well worth the effort. I design on my iPad Air using an Apple Pencil and the Procreate app, which can be found in the App Store. In Procreate, I create my patterns and convert using an app called VectorConverter. The app converts my files into SVG files from Procreate. This keeps the lines the same size even when I'm scaling my piece larger in the Cricut app. If you are serious about stained glass, this is an investment worth making.
I print my patterns on permanent vinyl and use a paint pen to number each piece. I also take a photo of the pattern so I can easily reference where each piece belongs during assembly. I know some artists prefer to create a duplicate paper pattern and add the numbers directly to it, allowing them to match each piece back to the original design.
Here is what I use to make my patterns:
iPad
Apple Pencil
Procreate App
VectorConverter App
Glass Cutter
Choosing the right glass cutter is largely a matter of personal preference. I’ve found that a pistol-grip cutter works best for me because I cut a lot of curves and feel more in control. It’s also easier on the hands during longer cutting sessions. That said, I started with a pencil-grip cutter, which is a more affordable option and works very well for shorter projects.
Glass cutting oil is essential for extending the life of your cutter and achieving cleaner, smoother cuts. Most glass cutters allow oil to be added internally, but I personally prefer dipping the cutter into a small dish. This gives me more control over how much oil is applied to the glass.
If you’re new to stained glass, I recommend starting with this beginner kit. This kit includes all the cutting tools you’ll need, such as a pencil-grip cutter, running pliers, and grozing pliers.
If you are more experienced and enjoy designing patterns with tight curves, I highly recommend Beschnitt pliers. They apply even pressure along the score line, making it easier to fracture curved sections of glass and increasing the likelihood that the glass will break cleanly along the entire score.
Glass Cutter Kit (would recommend if on a budget)
Running Pliers
I’m not exaggerating when I say that once I learned how to use these properly, my grinding and tapping time dropped to a fraction of what it had been before. This tool helps break the glass cleanly along your score line.
Pro tip: Use a black Sharpie to mark the center of the top curve of your running pliers. This makes it much easier to align your score with the point of greatest pressure on the pliers.
Grozing Pliers
Again, using these correctly is life-changing. They’re incredibly helpful for trimming small pieces. Whether you need to remove a tiny corner or refine a curve to better match your pattern.
Glass Cutter Kit (would recommend if on a budget)
Glass Grinder
A glass grinder is essential if you plan to cut anything beyond straight lines. It allows you to smooth sharp edges and fine-tune each piece so it fits your pattern perfectly.
I recommend starting with the Gryphon Gryphette Glass Grinder. I’ve used mine for over two years, including sessions lasting 5+ hours at a time, and it has held up beautifully without burnout.
If you’re unsure which grinder bit sizes you’ll prefer, start with a multi-size grinder bit set to experiment. Once you gain more experience and know your preferences, upgrading to Gryphon brand bits is well worth it for longevity and performance.
Copper Foil
Not all copper foil is created equal. I would highly recommend staying away from cheap packs from Amazon or craft stores. I’ve had experiences where the foil is not sticky or has become oxidized and effects the overall look and finish of the solder. If the copper foil to too thin, it will also break on tight curves.
For your reference, here are the different sizes of foil and what size will be best for your project.
3/16" (≈ 4.8 mm)
Best for very thin glass (around 1/8" or less)
Good for delicate, small pieces
7/32" (≈ 5.5 mm)
A great in-between size
Nice balance of coverage and neat solder lines
1/4" (≈ 6.4 mm)
Ideal for standard 1/8" art glass
Very forgiving and beginner-friendly
5/16" (≈ 7.9 mm)
Best for thicker glass or textured glass
Helpful if your glass thickness varies
3/8" (≈ 9.5 mm)
Used for very thick glass, bevels, or layered pieces
Common for borders or structural areas
Produces bold solder lines
I typically use 3/16" foil, but for beginners, I recommend starting with 7/32" or 1/4" to help you get used to the process. When choosing foil, it’s also important to pay attention to the different backing colors, as they can affect the final look of your piece.
Black-backed foil – best if you plan to patina black
Copper-backed foil – best for copper patina or natural finish
Silver-backed foil – best for silver solder finish
I typically stick to the Edco brand because of its quality and reliability. I’m including the sizes I recommend for beginners in black-backed foil, but feel free to explore other sizes and backing colors as you gain confidence and experience.
https://amzn.to/48MtOKA For smaller solder lines
Edco 7/32 Black Backed Copper Foil (Recommended for Beginners)
Edco 1/4 Black Backed Copper Foil
Other Essential Foiling Tools
Other important tools to have when foiling include a Foiling Buddy, which I absolutely love. I attach mine to a heat-resistant board using push pins, allowing me to foil comfortably while watching a show. It does take a little time to get used to, but it will save you time in the long run.
You’ll also need a foil burnishing set, which makes applying copper foil to your glass pieces much easier and more precise. In addition, a good pair of scissors and an X-Acto knife are essential for trimming excess foil and cleaning up any edges or seams that don’t line up properly.
Soldering Iron
If you are working with lead or lead-free solder, do not buy a cheap soldering iron. You’ll want an iron with adjustable temperature control. I recommend the Hakko 601—once I switched, it drastically improved the consistency of my solder lines. This is one tool I would absolutely splurge on.
Lead Solder and Flux
I started out using standard 60/40 solder. It melts at a lower temperature than lead-free solder and is relatively easy to work with. When using regular solder, I pair it with paste flux. While some people prefer liquid flux, I prefer paste flux because it’s easier to see where it’s been applied and tends to last longer.
Lead-Free Solder and Flux
I’ve spent a lot of time and money finding the best lead-free solder that doesn’t break the bank. The best I’ve found on Amazon is the Canfield Lead-Free DGS Solder. It flows well and takes black patina nicely (as long as you clean the piece thoroughly). I use Copper Mate Flux with it.
When working with lead-free solder, you’ll also need a sal ammoniac block, tip tinner, and either a good sponge or a soldering iron holder with a metal cleaner at the base. Keeping your soldering tip clean is crucial when working with lead-free solder; if the tip isn’t clean, heat won’t transfer properly, and your soldering will turn messy.
Protective Equipment (Don't Skip This!)
Safety should always come first when working with glass. Lead solder, flux, and patina can have serious health consequences if you don't wear proper protective gear. Please take time to learn about these risks.
Why You Need Protective Equipment
There are two main areas of concern when working with stained glass:
Physical Injuries from Glass and Solder: Glass shards, flying pieces that can damage your eyes, and solder splatter on skin and eyes are real hazards.
Chemical and Fume Exposure from Lead, Patina, and Flux: These materials can irritate your skin and are harmful to inhale. Please take time to become familiar with the risks of working with these chemicals.
Here's what I recommend:
Safety Glasses
I wear these during every step of the process except foiling. They protect your eyes from glass shards, solder splatter, and chemical exposure. Choose a pair you truly like and find comfortable. You’ll be wearing them often.
Protective Gloves
I personally don’t wear gloves during the cutting process, but if you want to avoid glass shards and minor cuts, I recommend cut-resistant gloves. I prefer having my hands free so I can better feel the glass and move more precisely.
You will need to wear nitrile gloves when soldering and applying patina. This is extremely important. These chemicals are toxic, can be absorbed through the skin, and may negatively affect your health with repeated exposure. Protecting your hands is non-negotiable.
Respirator or Ventilation
Whether you’re using lead-free or traditional solder, flux produces toxic fumes and proper ventilation is essential. I always wear a respirator mask, keep a window open, and use a small fume extractor while soldering.
Other Safety Precautions I Take
After soldering, I always change out of my clothes, wear closed-toed shoes, avoid eating or drinking in the same space, and thoroughly wipe down and clean my work area. It may seem overboard, but living in an apartment means I don’t have the luxury of a separate studio
Cleaning Supplies
Cleaning your piece after soldering is critical for both longevity and finish—especially when working with lead-free solder and flux. This step is often overlooked, but taking the time to thoroughly clean will dramatically improve how your final piece looks and how well patina adheres.
Below are the products I use and the exact order I follow to prepare for patina.
Step 1: Initial Deep Clean
Immediately after soldering, I clean the piece using Dawn Powerwash, distilled water, and baking soda. I scrub vigorously with a dish brush, making sure to get into all corners, joints, and especially the edges (don’t forget the edges!). Once scrubbed, I rinse thoroughly with distilled water and dry the piece completely.
Step 2: Flux Residue Removal
Next, I use Kwik Clean to remove any remaining flux residue. I scrub the entire piece again, paying close attention to corners and seams, then wipe it off without using water.
Step 3: Final Solder Cleanup
If I notice any areas where the solder still looks dull or dirty, I gently clean them with steel wool. Afterward, I run a magnet over the entire piece to pick up any remaining steel wool fragments.
Step 4: Patina Preparation
Once the piece is fully clean, it’s ready for patina. I add about 1 teaspoon of table salt to my patina solution to help achieve a deeper, richer black. After the salt is fully dissolved, I apply the patina along the solder lines using a dedicated flux brush (not the same one used for flux) or a travel toothbrush for precision.
Black Patina (Recommended for lead-free)
Copper Patina (NOT recommended for lead-free)
Finishing Tools
If you want your piece to shine and help prevent tarnish over time, I recommend using glass wax or Pledge furniture cleaner as the final step in your polishing process. Apply it with a microfiber cloth and use Q-tips to clean around edges and detailed areas.
I also use wire, S-hooks, and aluminum chain to hang my pieces. In addition, I really like adhesive window hooks for display—they’re very strong and remove cleanly without leaving any residue
If you plan on using came around the outside of your piece, you will need these tools to cut the pieces and and stretch your came out
Work Surfaces
I recently started using silicone mats while soldering and when laying out pieces during grinding and foiling. They’re heat-resistant and very easy to clean. I also like them because the pieces don’t slide around, and I can easily pick up the mat and move it to another location in my apartment.
I use a waffle grid to cut larger glass pieces. I purchased it as part of a set that also included a cutting system, which I’ve found especially helpful for cutting straight lines.
Cutting System and Waffle Grid
For smaller cuts, I use heat-resistant boards (I have four of them), which allow me to foil, solder, and cut on the same surface. They’re my go-to boards for nearly every step of the process. Just be sure to keep them dry, as they can warp if they get wet.
Contact Me
I hope you find this helpful! If you have any questions, or if any of the items are no longer available on Amazon, please feel free to email me at heirloomglassworksco@gmail.com